contents



lunetiers du jura
members
designers/brands
events
press
portfolio
email and information
links to related sites





lunetiers du jura
members
designers/brands
events
press
portfolio
email and information
links to related sites





Spectacles : from the nail to the fashion accessory

According to historians, glasses were invented seven centuries ago. Originally, of course, they were a prosthesis rather than a fashion accessory!

Back in the Middle Ages, during the second half of the thirteenth century, the curiosity of the English monk Roger Bacon led him to develop an interest in optics; to him we owe this fantastic invention which today delights those suffering from myopia, hyperopia, astigmatism and presbyopia.

With the aim of correcting the failing vision caused by ageing (presbyopia), this Franciscan monk (1215-1294) had the idea of inserting two plano-convex lenses into two circles of wood, joined together by a nail. One of his friends, the Flemish theologian Henri Goëtals, took the spectacles developed by Bacon to Rome, causing a sensation amongst the Dominican monks of Pisa. Bacon's idea was copied by an Italian monk, Salvino d'Armati, who had some made and for a long time was considered to have been the inventor of spectacles.





A step forward came in the XVIIIth century when metal wire was used to replace the nail, which meant that the spectacles were less fragile. We owe this development to an artisan called Pierre-Hyacinthe Caseaux, working in the Pays de Morez (Jura), who already manufactured nails.




Other inventions followed: the pince-nez in 1860 (the production of spectacles and lenses reached 11 million in 1882), the first 'nylor' just after the Second World War, the progressive lens invented by Essel in 1959 and today reaching sales of 50 million, and we mustn't forget the invention of rolled gold wire!
In spite of the series of technological advances in side-pieces and lenses, the idea of eyewear fashion only emerged during the 1950s with the launch of models combining lightness and aesthetics, and only became genuinely established in the 1960s.

Glasses have changed from being just a prosthesis to become an object which evolves according to fashion and individual taste. Spectacle design and stylists have arrived on the scene. Today's spectacle designs are signed by the big names in haute couture, including Courrèges, Nina Ricci, Givenchy, Daniel Hechter, Lanvin, Naf-Naf, and others. Glasses do indeed move with the times.



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Two centuries of history at Morez

It all began in the XVIIIth century with Pierre-Hyacinthe Caseaux's invention. Established at Arcets (in Jura, near to Morez), he very quickly received orders from a jeweller-opticians in Geneva, developed his workshop and soon had his competitors. In 1827 production was divided between Morez (480 spectacles, 4 workshops), Prémanon (2400 spectacles, 16 workshops), and Longchaumois (120 spectacles, 5 workshops). Then companies began to grow, such as the Maison Lamy-Lacroix, heir to the Caseaux workshop, which also excelled in watchmaking; they supplied work to many home workers, exported, exhibited at industrial shows at Paris and elsewhere, and received awards and medals.




Little by little a real industry developed. In the space of 20 years, from 1826 to 1848, the output of the workshops at Morez grew from 3,000 to 720,000 items. This growth continued at high speed, reaching 11 million items in 1882, and brought a living to a whole region through dozens of companies, some of which continued to work in parallel with other traditional precision crafts of the Jura region such as watchmakers and silversmiths.

This swarm of manufacturers also helped the development of new inventions and technical advances. By the XIXth century, its reputation for quality and creativity had established Morez as the capital of French spectacle manufacture.



Since the Second World War, the industry has evolved into a part of the fashion trade and enjoyed a renewed vigour; new markets have opened up and innovations have multiplied.The future is in safe hands: the opticians, spectacle manufacturers and business experts of the future are being trained at the Lycée d'Optique Victor Bérard, which currently boasts 750 students. Spectacle manufacture has been taught since 1904.

Building on the technologies of tomorrow, the spectacles of the third millennium are being designed in this Lycée and in the workshops of Morez.



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Lycée Victor Bérard in Morez


 
The Morez watch making school opened in 1854. The Morez Applied Industry School was opened on November 5, 1895. Between 1900 and 1904, spectacle making theory and practice was introduced progressively in the curriculum to adapt it to the jobs available in the area and by 1905, graduates left to work as skilled mechanics, clock makers, carpenters, spectacle makers and cabinet makers.

During the first world war, the school made more than 200,000 fuse casings. After 1918, the "optics and spectacle making" section grew and the buildings became slightly overcrowded. In order to finance enlargement work, the local authorities asked the national government to nationalize the school. Nationalization was supported by the senator from the Jura, Victor Bérard. In 1928, the nationalization agreement was signed and the Applied Industry School was renamed the National School of Optics.

In June 1960, a government decree was promulgated renaming all the National Vocational Schools to State Technical Lycées.

The Victor Bérard State Technical Lycée in Morez was enlarged in September 1997 and gained a new section, in optical engineering, with an option in photonics. It now has 700 students. Its varied technical programs have guided generations of students onto successful professional careers.
Today, the Lycée Victor Bérard is a successful balance between traditional optics and micromechanics and the future of cutting edge technologies.

Lycée Technique d'Etat Victor Bérard
35 quai Aimé Lamy - BP 87
39403 Morez Cedex
France

www.lyceemorez.fr



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One capital, one market


Source : Banque de France / Lunetiers du Jura - December 2002


Morez, the French capital of the spectacle profession nestled in the heart of the Haut-Jura region, is located in an area steeped in an old industrial tradition and is a modest town with 7 209 inhabitants, which takes nothing away from its production and export capacities.

The Jura département comprises around 20 towns and villages specialised in the spectacle industry, most of which can be found in the Morez district :

60 companies employing 3 426 people and representing 50% of national production.






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The Lunetiers du Jura federation

Key dates in the development of the Jura Spectacle Manufacturers organisation

1925 : the Chambre Syndicale des fabricants de Lunetterie de Morez (guild of spectacle manufacturers) was established for companies with more than 50 employees.

June 1936 : the Syndicat des fabricants et négociants lunetiers du canton de Morez (union of spectacle manufacturers and opticians) was established for small companies. In November 1944, a change in its statutes ended the geographical restriction to the Morez district, enabling all requests for membership to be accepted.

1941 : the two trade organisations decided to form a joint administrative body. A secretariat was set up under the title of the 'groupements patronaux de la Lunetterie de Morez (spectacle manufacturing employer's organisation) and lasted until 1958.

February 1958 : the new Chambre Syndicale de la lunetterie de Morez (guild of spectacle manufacturers) was established, with 84 members.

1992 : the Chambre Syndicale de la lunetterie became the Syndicat Professionnel des Lunetiers de Jura (federation of spectacle manufacturers of Jura), known as Les Lunetiers de Jura (the Jura Spectacle Manufacturers).

January 2003 : the Lunetiers du Jura set up in the "Viséum" (114, bis rue de la République in Morez).





A firmly rooted professional organisation

In January 2003, the professional association of the Lunetiers du Jura, founded in 1925, entered its new offices, entitled the 'VISEUM', in Morez.

This professional organisation, which is currently chaired by Christian Receveur, CEO of COMOTEC (Forsym group), hopes that its new offices will symbolise its intention to develop a real centre of life in the spectacle trade managed by the entire profession and its environment.


Guided visit

  • The 1st level is home to the association's operational team, the Technological Spectacle Association (A.LU.TEC) created in 1982 by the Lunetiers du Jura, and a conference room..

  • The 2nd level, the profession's Documentation centre - a tool for monitoring strategic information in the fields of research and development, marketing, international markets… - is available to professionals in the optical-spectacle industry, teachers, researchers, students…


  • The 'Viséum', a showcase of the profession's expertise, is home to the latest creations crafted by the Lunetiers du Jura.


    An entire industry in an ultra-competitive environment

    Above all, the Lunetiers du Jura federate a highly-skilled network at the service of the French spectacle industry, incorporating all the industrial and commercial businesses :
    • Creation and manufacture of frames for glasses (81%) and sunglasses (15%)
    • Manufacture of eye-protection frames (4%) )
    • Design and manufacture of spectacle components
    • Surface treatments, decoration…
    • Manufacture of accessories (cases, small chains, point-of-sale advertising…)
    • Design and manufacture of machines.
    This network of unified companies develops more than 2 000 new models every year within the same region, works and creates innovative designs for more than 100 labels or brands, and produces more than 10 million glasses annually, half of which are exported around the world (40% in the USA-Canada, 45% in Europe, 10% in Asia). The network also has close working ties with Paris (subcontracting for most designers) and Oyonnax..

    Despite a clear drop in exports and the increasing level of competition from Asian manufacturers due to the market for fakes, France nevertheless remains the world's 6th largest exporter of spectacle frames.

    As far as Jura spectacle manufacturers are concerned, the future will involve :
  • A high-quality approach, based on their exceptional level of expertise
  • Their determination to break new ground in industrial materials and creative design
  • A policy focusing on brand names and designer labels
  • Striving for the level of comfort and the product perfectly adapted to the consumer, which the low-price competition is currently unable to provide



  • Collective action plans

    The Lunetiers du Jura are conducting innovative collective action plans with the backing of the authorities, as part of a professional contract for progress and development, and making inroads into the fields of marketing, vocational training, exports, research and development (A.LU.TEC)…

    Given that glasses have become a key accessory as a form of individual expression and identity, due to their prominent position on the face, the Lunetiers du Jura provide companies with tools for analysing population movements and trends in fashion :
  • The international design competition - "young designers, looking into the future"
  • The "b. to see" trend journal, a real source of creative inspiration
  • Seminars and workshops for designers, students…
  • Privileged partnerships with the Rhone-Alpes Centre of Design, the French Institute of Fashion, stylist firms…


  • The Viséum represents a privileged setting for developing these initiatives and welcoming the key players in the profession.


    In figures…

    • 3426 employees

    • Turnover : € 362.02 million

    • from exports : € 144.24 million

    • 36 members

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    Lunetiers du Jura Documentation Centre
    History and target audience

    The documentation centre was inaugurated in 1996, and collects and distributes trade-related information to members, companies, journalists, students, researchers and teachers, as well as any other individuals involved in the spectacle industry.


    Services

    A wide range of services is on offer :

  • Free consultation of press articles, theses, various reports and memoranda, photo database…
  • Consultation of theme-based press reviews, Companies, Distributors, Brands and Designer Labels...
  • Access to the internal database
  • Document searches on request
  • Patents and standards monitoring (reserved for members)
  • Economy watch for several countries and consultation of strategic surveys (reserved for members)

  • Opening hours :

    For any document requests, contact Gwénaëlle Comte on +33 (0)3 84 33 59 21 or go along to the documentation centre during the following opening hours :
    • Monday to Thursday : 8 am - 12 pm / 1:30 pm - 5:30 pm
    • Friday : 8 am - 12 pm / 1:30 pm - 4:30 pm

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    Glasses from A to Z

    Spectacle manufacture, a precision industry using high technology and a constantly evolving range of materials, is highly labour intensive and requires a great deal of expertise.

    Just imagine: making one pair of glasses may take nearly two hundred operations, depending on the exact model.

    Everything begins at the cutting workshop with the work on the round wire which is used to manufacture the sides and the bridge, and the profilwire used to make the circular rims which hold the lenses. In some cases specialist parts manufacture companies produce the components (hinges, nose pads, end covers of the sides) for spectacle manufacturers.

    The next step is to forge, bend, weld, assemble, and mark the dimensions - lens size and distance between lenses - inside the bridge, the length of the sides and other indications on the sides, then fit the rim closing blocks (or failing that, the lug with closing block if the glasses do not have rim closing block), then, where required, fit the sprung hinge on the sides and screw these on to the front of the frame.

    The frame then has to be decorated, either by depositing a layer of precious metal (gold, palladium, etc.) or by using lacquer or paint, then covering it with a protective varnish designed to withstand chemical attack; every glasses are then degreased and cleaned before being inspected, packed and dispatched.









    Colour :
    A very wide range of colours is used: dark colours like brown, green, navy blue and black; bright, warm, or cool colours; stone, earth, sea, sand, foliage, fruit, or flowers; pearl, high-tech, or metallic (steel, silver, chrome, gun metal, gold, and palladium) in either matt or gloss.


    Creation :
    The design firstly takes the form of a paper diagram, then a CAD (Computer Assisting Design) file and finally a prototype; only then are the glasses manufactured. The designers, monitoring developments in lifestyles and trends, design several models, only a few of which will be finally produced.



    Decoration :
    Decoration is a craft in its own right. It is creative and painstaking work, requiring nearly six months of training; most of those doing it are women. Equipped with a syringe or special devices and a large dose of patience, the decorators implement the decorative work conceived by the house designers. By this stage the frame has undergone its first electroplating.


    Wire :
    The round wire is used to manufacture the sides and the bridge. It comes supplied in rolls, and is straightened, cut, folded and forged - to give it shape and relief - and trimmed to transform it into a part of the frame. The profilwire is used to produce the rims: it has a grooved cross-section used to insert the lenses. It is shaped (in 3 D) on a digitally-controlled machine.



    Shape :
    The current trend is to rounded shapes such as round, butterfly and oval; this can be combined to geometrical shapes (rectangular, square, polygonal) rounded edges.


    Glasses :
    A classic model of glasses consists of two sides (or temples), two rims, two closing blocks, two lugs (or endpieces) sometimes with trims, two pad arms, two end covers (or tips), a bridge, a batten and the screws.



    Materials :
    For frame flexibility, we use titanium, steel, kevlar, carbon fibre and other modern and innovative materials such as shape memory alloys, while to improve its strength we use monel (nickel/copper alloy) or hardening materials. Gold, platinum, silver and other precious materials continue to be used. Alloyed with copper and steel, they are tinted and made more matt.


    Frames :
    Where the frame is made from plastic (replacing horn and tortoise shell), the front which supports the lenses is formed in a single piece.

    When made from metal, it consists of the following :

  • 1 pair of rims
  • 1 bridge linking the two rims allowing the glasses to rest on the nose
  • 1 pair of lugs connecting the sides to the front
  • 2 pads for holding the frame on the nose, fixed on to the frame by two pad arms.
  • 1 pair of sides
  • 2 end covers at the end of the sides

  • Decorative elements, trims, and hoods can be added to the frames.

    The metal used today is light and thin, made from stainless steel, titanium, cobalt, traditional copper based metals, rolled gold, aluminium alloy, etc.



    Spectacle manufacturing know-how :
    The crafts involved in spectacle frame manufacture include creation and design (designer, model maker, design office, toolmaker, etc.), production (press operators, solder operators, polishers, electroplating operators), sales, distribution and marketing, communication, after-sales service, and quality.


    Lenses :
    This essential product has evolved since the days of cutting lenses from glass balls in the 17th century to the current high technology processes. Mineral (made from glass) or organic (transparent and lightweight plastics), lenses withstand shock, are lighter, more comfortable and correct vision better while achieving harmony and adapting to the wearer's personality.



    © 1997-2007 - Lunetiers du Jura
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